
發布日期:2016-09-13 13:37:34 訪問次數:2544
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蜀(shu)繡還有一(yi)個顯著的特點,就是每繡(xiu)(xiu)一(yi)幅(fu)繡(xiu)(xiu)得有生氣,繡(xiu)(xiu)出(chu)一(yi)氣呵(he)成(cheng),氣韻連貫的藝術效果。 一首唱少女(nv)給情(qing)(qing)郎繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)荷(he)(he)包(bao)(bao)表達(da)愛心的(de)四川民(min)歌,有(you)(you)句"為(wei)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)荷(he)(he)包(bao)(bao)兒(er)有(you)(you)人(ren)(ren)(ren)求,……瞞倒爹(die)娘繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)得忙",封建社(she)會青年男女(nv)互生戀情(qing)(qing),違背父母之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)命,私送信物(wu)(wu),故要(yao)(yao)瞞著。荷(he)(he)包(bao)(bao)隨身佩帶,除裝(zhuang)錢物(wu)(wu)又作(zuo)(zuo)裝(zhuang)飾,元雜劇明(ming)清(qing)小說服飾描寫每每提(ti)及(ji),歐陽修(xiu)的(de)"紫(zi)荷(he)(he)垂橐"即言(yan)此物(wu)(wu)。因(yin)以(yi)(yi)彩色(se)絲(si)(si)線刺(ci)(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),故必出自閨(gui)閣,送心上(shang)人(ren)(ren)(ren),圖案繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)鴛(yuan)鴦或(huo)并(bing)(bing)蒂蓮,喻有(you)(you)情(qing)(qing)人(ren)(ren)(ren)終不(bu)分(fen)離(li),針針線線,極盡工巧,最見女(nv)子(zi)惠心深情(qing)(qing)。 荷(he)(he)包(bao)(bao)未必都特別(bie),然(ran)而刺(ci)(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)確(que)非等閑手(shou)段。先秦(qin)典籍記"觀古人(ren)(ren)(ren)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)象(xiang)"時(shi),把"作(zuo)(zuo)會"(即繪)與(yu)"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)"并(bing)(bing)提(ti),說"畫(hua)繢(繪)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)事,雜五色(se)……五采備謂(wei)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)"(《尚書》《周禮》)。畫(hua)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)皆(jie)用(yong)色(se),且"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)亦須(xu)畫(hua)乃刺(ci)(ci)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)",可見其不(bu)簡單。漢(han)以(yi)(yi)前刺(ci)(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)主要(yao)(yao)是(shi)衣裳,王充《論衡(heng)》:"刺(ci)(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)師,能縫惟(wei)裳"。所謂(wei)"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)",文(wen)(wen)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(《禮記》)。只有(you)(you)皇帝服裝(zhuang)才以(yi)(yi)五色(se)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)。據說周代(dai)以(yi)(yi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)文(wen)(wen)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)區(qu)別(bie)以(yi)(yi)葛(ge)布與(yu)絲(si)(si)帛(bo)為(wei)材(cai)料的(de)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品。《史記》載(zai)"楚莊王有(you)(you)所愛馬(ma),衣以(yi)(yi)文(wen)(wen)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),置華(hua)屋(wu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)下"皇帝寵物(wu)(wu)穿(chuan)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)圖絲(si)(si)衣顯是(shi)極尊(zun)貴;戰國"齊(qi)紈魯(lu)縞(gao)"很(hen)有(you)(you)名,這大(da)概(gai)與(yu)齊(qi)郡尚刺(ci)(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)、"恒女(nv)無不(bu)能"有(you)(you)關,絲(si)(si)織繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品大(da)量(liang)制作(zuo)(zuo)在當(dang)時(shi)是(shi)極奢侈(chi)的(de),所以(yi)(yi)齊(qi)國號為(wei)"冠帶衣履天下"。 衣(yi)因(yin)繡(xiu)(xiu)而尊,便有等級之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)分,古代正(zheng)史上的《輿(yu)服志》詳(xiang)列(lie)此種(zhong)差別,謂之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)?quot;典章興(xing)矣"(《舊唐書》)。不僅如此,絲帛必(bi)須(xu)"加五(wu)采之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)巧,施(shi)針(zhen)縷之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)飾",方顯珍貴,這正(zheng)是"織錦(jin)(jin)刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu),名曰卓殊(shu)"《論衡》的奇能,也是中國(guo)"女(nv)功(gong)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)始也"(《禮記(ji)》)。王充(chong)論儒(ru)生之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)富于才學,比"猶女(nv)工織錦(jin)(jin)刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)奇也"。尤其商(shang)業(ye)發達(da)生活(huo)侈靡之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)地刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)更見興(xing)盛,且名家一出,便自成流派。 今見蜀(shu)(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)較早(zao)記(ji)載(zai)(zai)出于漢(han)賦(fu)家楊雄,其《蜀(shu)(shu)都賦(fu)》云: "若(ruo)揮錦(jin)(jin)布(bu)繡(xiu)(xiu),望芒兮無(wu)幅",另作(zuo)《繡(xiu)(xiu)補》詩。隨著蜀(shu)(shu)地絲織業(ye)的發達(da),蜀(shu)(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)有了雄厚的基礎,所(suo)以到西(xi)(xi)漢(han)末蜀(shu)(shu)地"女(nv)工之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)業(ye),覆衣(yi)天(tian)下"(《后漢(han)書》),名聲在外。刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)基礎在民(min)間(jian),但作(zuo)為(wei)工藝,在當時仍(reng)很稀罕,因(yin)是奢侈品,并受(shou)朝廷官(guan)府(fu)控制(zhi)。漢(han)代少府(fu)屬官(guan)的東織室(shi)西(xi)(xi)織室(shi),就是專為(wei)皇室(shi)加工繒(zeng)帛文繡(xiu)(xiu)高級成品而設(she)立的。因(yin)繡(xiu)(xiu)品顯示非(fei)凡之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)技,所(suo)以常(chang)視之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)寶。晉(jin)常(chang)璩《華陽國(guo)志》詳(xiang)載(zai)(zai)蜀(shu)(shu)地寶物,便將錦(jin)(jin)繡(xiu)(xiu)與金銀(yin)珠玉同列(lie)。漢(han)末三(san)國(guo)時,蜀(shu)(shu)錦(jin)(jin)蜀(shu)(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)均(jun)被(bei)用來(lai)換馬以應(ying)作(zuo)戰之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)需并補財(cai)政之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)不足。 基于(yu)蜀地富(fu)饒,尤其是所產絲(si)(si)帛質好(hao)量(liang)大(著名的南(nan)絲(si)(si)綢之(zhi)路(lu)便始發于(yu)成都),故唐宋時(shi)"繭(jian)絲(si)(si)織文纖麗(li)者窮于(yu)天下"(《宋史(shi)·地理志》),"民織作冰紈綺繡(xiu)等(deng)物(wu),號為冠天下"(《續資治通鑒長編(bian)紀事本末》)。成都繁華富(fu)麗(li),生活享樂而藝能有所工(gong),史(shi)稱(cheng)成?quot;人(ren)多(duo)工(gong)巧,綾錦雕縷(lv)之(zhi)妙(miao),殆牟于(yu)上國")《隋書(shu)·地理志》)。良(liang)好(hao)的社(she)會物(wu)質條件與(yu)優裕的精神氛圍使得(de)繡(xiu)藝妙(miao)絕(jue)天下。 民間凡富(fu)(fu)裕(yu)士子游女(nv)也(ye)多衣錦繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)。《花(hua)間集》詞(ci)多詠五(wu)代蜀中(zhong)男女(nv)情(qing)事(shi),時(shi)(shi)有(you)刺繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)方面描寫,如(ru)"新貼(tie)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)羅(luo)襦,雙(shuang)(shuang)雙(shuang)(shuang)金(jin)鷓(zhe)鴣(gu)(gu)"(溫庭(ting)筠(yun)),"錦浦春女(nv),繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)衣金(jin)縷,霧薄云輕(qing)"(韋莊);除穿戴又(you)借多種繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品及圖案抒發情(qing)思并(bing)點(dian)染(ran)境界,如(ru)"紅燭背(bei),繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)廉垂(chui),夢長(chang)君不知" (溫庭(ting)筠(yun)),"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)鴛(yuan)鴦枕暖(nuan),畫孔雀屏(ping)欹"(顧(gu)曾)等(deng)等(deng),盡管是詞(ci)人之語,也(ye)可探知當(dang)時(shi)(shi)風俗;女(nv)紅之盛,由(you)閨(gui)閣的(de)特定背(bei)景描寫可見一斑,如(ru)"鶯啼殘月(yue),繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)閣香(xiang)燈滅(mie)"(韋莊),"后(hou)園里看百(bai)花(hua)發,香(xiang)風拂(fu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)戶(hu)金(jin)扉"(毛文錫),諸如(ru)此類,幾乎成(cheng)了(le)香(xiang)艷脂(zhi)粉套語,如(ru)"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)戶(hu)"不少(shao)是指大戶(hu)人家(jia)雕(diao)梁畫棟(dong)的(de)屋宇,如(ru)王倨"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)戶(hu)雕(diao)軒文杏梁"。上舉(ju)詞(ci)中(zhong)每每用金(jin)錢繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)鴛(yuan)鴦鷓(zhe)鴣(gu)(gu),那直是富(fu)(fu)豪之女(nv)的(de)事(shi),如(ru)白居(ju)易詩(shi)"紅樓(lou)富(fu)(fu)家(jia)女(nv),金(jin)縷刺羅(luo)襦",所謂(wei)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)樓(lou)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)閣,當(dang)是大家(jia)閨(gui)秀的(de)所在(zai)。但也(ye)看出刺繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)及繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品在(zai)婦(fu)女(nv)生活中(zhong)的(de)重要。 古蜀繡(xiu)品(pin)極少傳世(shi),較早的"北宋(song)蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)雙(shuang)冠圖片"(現藏西南(nan)師范大(da)學),綾地(di),繡(xiu)(xiu)片高44厘米,寬30.7厘米,上(shang)(shang)繡(xiu)(xiu)二株雞(ji)冠花(hua)、孤嶼、水(shui)(shui)草水(shui)(shui)波紋,一(yi)雄雞(ji)嶼上(shang)(shang)昂首振翼(yi)催曉,上(shang)(shang)端鈐(qian)"明昌御覽"玉璽一(yi)方(fang)。明昌是(shi)金章宗(zong)皇帝年號(hao),可能(neng)是(shi)宋(song)朝廷贈給(gei)金國的。中國古(gu)代(dai)(dai)的山水(shui)(shui)花(hua)鳥(niao)畫(hua)的成熟期在(zai)五代(dai)(dai),其突出代(dai)(dai)表便是(shi)西蜀南(nan)唐的畫(hua)家如(ru)黃筌、荊(jing)浩等。宋(song)人之(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu),針(zhen)(zhen)線(xian)(xian)細密,其用(yong)線(xian)(xian)止(zhi)一(yi)、二絲,用(yong)針(zhen)(zhen)如(ru)發細者(zhe)(zhe)為之(zhi)(zhi)"。花(hua)草禽(qin)鳥(niao)之(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)非如(ru)此(ci)細密而不(bu)能(neng)工(gong)(gong)不(bu)能(neng)真,加之(zhi)(zhi)題材(cai)之(zhi)(zhi)自然清新,比(bi)較龍鳳及漢唐流行紋樣(yang)更(geng)富于生(sheng)活(huo)氣(qi)息。后代(dai)(dai)言(yan)及繡(xiu)(xiu)者(zhe)(zhe)之(zhi)(zhi)工(gong)(gong),就說"工(gong)(gong)仿(fang)宋(song)繡(xiu)(xiu)",贊揚"精刺繡(xiu)(xiu)"者(zhe)(zhe),即(ji)言(yan)其"能(neng)滅(mie)去(qu)針(zhen)(zhen)線(xian)(xian)痕跡",直(zhi)稱"針(zhen)(zhen)神(shen)"。此(ci)乃仿(fang)宋(song)畫(hua)之(zhi)(zhi)工(gong)(gong),甚至有直(zhi)謂"繪繡(xiu)(xiu)"的。 明(ming)代(dai)(dai)秦(qin)(qin)良(liang)玉(yu)(yu)(yu)錦(jin)袍(pao)(pao)也是蜀(shu)中今(jin)所(suo)見稀(xi)罕繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品(pin)。一為(wei)藍緞并(bing)(bing)金繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)蟒袍(pao)(pao),胸背襟(jin)袖均(jun)并(bing)(bing)金刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)蟒紋(wen)(wen),又間彩(cai)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)萬福(fu)、如意(yi)、云紋(wen)(wen)、寶(bao)相花(hua)紋(wen)(wen)等;一為(wei)黃(huang)(huang)(huang)緞并(bing)(bing)金繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)花(hua)蟒鳳衫,除蟒紋(wen)(wen),胸背又繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)雙鳳,裙腳彩(cai)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)壽山(shan)福(fu)海(hai),空白(bai)間繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)彩(cai)云。秦(qin)(qin)良(liang)玉(yu)(yu)(yu)乃一代(dai)(dai)名將,崇禎帝(di)曾(ceng)召(zhao)見并(bing)(bing)賦詩表(biao)彰(zhang)其征戰(zhan)之(zhi)(zhi)功,云:"蜀(shu)錦(jin)征袍(pao)(pao)手制(zhi)(zhi)成(cheng),桃花(hua)馬上請長纓,世間不少奇(qi)男子(zi),誰肯沙場(chang)萬里行",身(shen)著蜀(shu)錦(jin)緞精繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)蟒袍(pao)(pao)馳騁疆(jiang)場(chang),其俊美英武非男兒可比。服(fu)飾(shi)之(zhi)(zhi)用(yong)黃(huang)(huang)(huang)色在隋唐為(wei)皇帝(di)所(suo)興,宋元以后赤黃(huang)(huang)(huang)、丹黃(huang)(huang)(huang)、淺(qian)黃(huang)(huang)(huang)更(geng)為(wei)皇朝(chao)所(suo)專用(yong)。秦(qin)(qin)良(liang)玉(yu)(yu)(yu)因召(zhao)賜(si)"太(tai)子(zi)太(tai)保誥封一品(pin)夫人",故可服(fu)黃(huang)(huang)(huang)緞蟒鳳紋(wen)(wen)袍(pao)(pao)衫。《古董瑣記》載?quot;石柱(zhu)有(you)秦(qin)(qin)良(liang)玉(yu)(yu)(yu)錦(jin)袍(pao)(pao),極長大(da)(da)。"有(you)作《秦(qin)(qin)良(liang)玉(yu)(yu)(yu)錦(jin)袍(pao)(pao)歌》:"……宮錦(jin)歸來撫戰(zhan)袍(pao)(pao),鏤金錯(cuo)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)皆天澤……錦(jin)袍(pao)(pao)樂府(fu)蠻女唱(chang),弓衣合繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)都官篇"(見清(qing)王培荀(xun)《聽雨(yu)樓(lou)隨筆》引)。可見這件原藏石柱(zhu)縣(xian)秦(qin)(qin)良(liang)玉(yu)(yu)(yu)家(jia)廟的精工細做之(zhi)(zhi)戰(zhan)袍(pao)(pao)非常有(you)名。 三、蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)發(fa)展 作為(wei)專門技(ji)藝,歷史(shi)上刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)常為(wei)朝(chao)廷官府(fu)控制(zhi)(zhi),如宋朝(chao)廷始設(she)(she)"文繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)院",招納繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)工專為(wei)皇室繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)制(zhi)(zhi)御服(fu)及裝飾(shi)品(pin),元代(dai)(dai)在全(quan)國各地設(she)(she)有(you)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)局,明(ming)代(dai)(dai)設(she)(she)內廷作坊專管各項工藝制(zhi)(zhi)作,清(qing)代(dai)(dai)同(tong)類(lei)機構叫造辦處。這些(xie)官方(fang)機構除了(le)(le)督造朝(chao)廷政府(fu)所(suo)需(xu),對(dui)刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)行業的正規確立,提高(gao)其社會經濟地位也起到積極作用(yong)。如清(qing)政府(fu)于光緒二十九年(nian)(1903)在成(cheng)都成(cheng)立四川省勸工總局,內設(she)(she)刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)科,聘請名家(jia)設(she)(she)計(ji)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)稿,同(tong)時(shi)鉆研刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)技(ji)法。當(dang)時(shi)一批有(you)特色的畫家(jia)如劉子(zi)兼的山(shan)水、趙鶴琴的花(hua)鳥、楊建安的荷(he)花(hua)、張(zhang)致安的蟲魚等入繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),既提高(gao)了(le)(le)蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)的藝術欣賞性,同(tong)時(shi)也產生了(le)(le)一批刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)名家(jia),如張(zhang)洪興、王草廷、羅文勝、陳(chen)文勝等。張(zhang)洪興等名家(jia)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)制(zhi)(zhi)的動物四聯屏并(bing)(bing)獲"巴拿馬賽會"金質(zhi)獎章(zhang)。張(zhang)洪興繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)制(zhi)(zhi)的"獅(shi)子(zi)滾繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)球(qiu)"掛屏又得(de)清(qing)王朝(chao)嘉獎,授(shou)與"五品(pin)軍功",為(wei)蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)贏(ying)得(de)很大(da)(da)聲譽。 但之形成(cheng)(cheng)專(zhuan)業(ye)(ye)比官方勸工(gong)局更早。道光年(nian)間(jian)(1830年(nian)),民間(jian)組(zu)織的(de)"三皇神(shen)會"成(cheng)(cheng)立(li)。這是一個由(you)鋪(店主)、料(領工(gong))、師(工(gong)人)組(zu)成(cheng)(cheng)的(de)刺繡(xiu)(xiu)業(ye)(ye)的(de)專(zhuan)門行會。這種正式(shi)"垂(chui)版(ban)立(li)行",建立(li)行規(gui),確(que)定專(zhuan)業(ye)(ye)分工(gong),維持行業(ye)(ye)內部(bu)各方(如生產、銷(xiao)售等(deng)(deng))的(de)利益(yi),表(biao)明蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)已從家(jia)庭逐(zhu)漸進入市場,形成(cheng)(cheng)廣為社會所(suo)需的(de)規(gui)模生產。那時(shi)(shi)成(cheng)(cheng)都(dou)的(de)刺繡(xiu)(xiu)手(shou)工(gong)作(zuo)坊(fang)在(zai)九龍(long)巷(xiang)(xiang)、科甲巷(xiang)(xiang)一帶有(you)八九十(shi)家(jia),到(dao)官方勸工(gong)局成(cheng)(cheng)立(li),蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)業(ye)(ye)更加興盛。如"三皇神(shen)會"時(shi)(shi)的(de)刺繡(xiu)(xiu)主分三類(lei):穿貨(生產禮(li)服、霞披、挽袖(xiu)及其它(ta)實(shi)用(yong)品(pin))、行頭(tou)(劇裝)、燈彩(紅白喜(xi)事用(yong)的(de)圍屏、采帳等(deng)(deng)),到(dao)勸工(gong)局時(shi)(shi)期,實(shi)用(yong)品(pin)外更豐富(fu)(fu)(fu)了(le)刺繡(xiu)(xiu)欣賞品(pin)類(lei),如條屏、中堂(tang)、斗方、橫披等(deng)(deng),題材除以古代名家(jia)畫(hua)作(zuo)如蘇東(dong)坡的(de)怪石(shi)叢條、鄭板橋的(de)竹(zhu)石(shi)、陳老蓮的(de)人物(wu)等(deng)(deng)為粉本,又(you)(you)請當時(shi)(shi)名畫(hua)家(jia)設計繡(xiu)(xiu)稿,并繡(xiu)(xiu)制流(liu)行圖(tu)案,既有(you)山水(shui)花(hua)鳥、博古、龍(long)鳳(feng)、瓦文、古錢一類(lei),又(you)(you)有(you)民間(jian)傳(chuan)說,如八仙過海、麻(ma)姑獻壽,吹簫引鳳(feng)、麒麟送(song)子等(deng)(deng),也有(you)隱喻喜(xi)慶吉(ji)祥榮華富(fu)(fu)(fu)貴的(de)喜(xi)鵲(que)鬧(nao)梅(mei)、鴛(yuan)鴦戲水(shui)、金玉滿堂(tang)、鳳(feng)穿牡丹等(deng)(deng),十(shi)分豐富(fu)(fu)(fu)。 蜀繡在民(min)間廣為(wei)(wei)(wei)盛行(xing)。當時(shi)成都周圍郊縣農村以(yi)刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)副業者眾,有(you)些家庭代(dai)(dai)代(dai)(dai)相傳,故民(min)間不乏刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)高(gao)手。但勸工(gong)(gong)局對(dui)刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)大(da)(da)力研究與創制反過來又促進(jin)了民(min)間刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)業的發展,刺(ci)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)商號及繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)鋪增多(duo)。市場需求刺(ci)激著(zhu)蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)工(gong)(gong)藝的提(ti)高(gao),隨著(zhu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)技(ji)精進(jin),蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)名聲大(da)(da)噪,據(ju)說清代(dai)(dai)有(you)不少宮廷繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)來自四川,《成都通覽》云?quot;勸工(gong)(gong)局所出(chu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)天下無雙之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)品(pin),以(yi)東(dong)洋之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)工(gong)(gong)較之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),出(chu)于(yu)東(dong)洋十(shi)倍矣"。這自然有(you)賴(lai)于(yu)蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)固有(you)傳統。據(ju)統計,蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)針法有(you)12大(da)(da)婁,130余(yu)種之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)多(duo),是四大(da)(da)名繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)最(zui)豐(feng)富者,而(er)70余(yu)道(dao)衣錦(jin)線更是蜀繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)所獨(du)具(ju)。所以(yi)當時(shi)來成都的外(wai)國人,"多(duo)購(gou)買數十(shi)年外(wai)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)舊繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品(pin)為(wei)(wei)(wei)玩物,能(neng)出(chu)重價",如"女人之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)裙幅,購(gou)去即(ji)作門簾;官(guan)場之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),購(gou)去即(ji)作茶幾(ji)上之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)蓋面(mian);神會之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)帳,購(gou)去即(ji)為(wei)(wei)(wei)壁(bi)上之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)屏幅"(《成都通覽》),當然還是以(yi)其精致(zhi)的繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)圖為(wei)(wei)(wei)珍(zhen);實用轉而(er)為(wei)(wei)(wei)玩賞,自是其審美價值的提(ti)升(sheng)。若傳至(zhi)今日,又不啻是一般裝飾物了。 從方志所列清末"成(cheng)(cheng)都(dou)(dou)(dou)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)工(gong)出品"及"勸工(gong)局之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)工(gong)出品工(gong)程",可見(jian)蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)在當(dang)時(shi)(shi)已非(fei)常(chang)注重日用(yong)品的出產。這是蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)民(min)間(jian)性突(tu)出的方面,生活需用(yong),民(min)間(jian)即不(bu)(bu)乏繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)制(zhi)。城鄉婦女(nv)閑時(shi)(shi)多(duo)自(zi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)鞋(xie)帽枕套頭(tou)巾甚至(zhi)帳幃被面等,操練極精者(zhe)即成(cheng)(cheng)高手。如成(cheng)(cheng)都(dou)(dou)(dou)王(wang)松軒女(nv)史(shi)便(bian)自(zi)制(zhi)彩線,以名(ming)家(jia)粉本繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi),尤工(gong)小品,市(shi)多(duo)爭(zheng)購。那時(shi)(shi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品時(shi)(shi)興,尤今青年(nian)(nian)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)穿(chuan)休 所以愛(ai)家(jia)多(duo)慕世(shi)(shi)間(jian)名(ming)品。如上海露香(xiang)園(yuan)顧(gu)(gu)氏之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),由明代傳(chuan)至(zhi)清,著意宋元名(ming)畫題材入(ru)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),點染成(cheng)(cheng)文,無不(bu)(bu)精妙(miao),世(shi)(shi)稱顧(gu)(gu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),是典(dian)型的閨(gui)閣畫繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu),幾(ji)成(cheng)(cheng)民(min)間(jian)刺繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)代表。清末成(cheng)(cheng)都(dou)(dou)(dou)同(tong)蘇(su)杭相(xiang)同(tong),銹鋪多(duo)打"顧(gu)(gu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)"招牌,雖屬意包裝(zhuang),以示其(qi)(qi)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)品上佳,但(dan)也昭示蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)能(neng)吸納顧(gu)(gu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)技(ji)藝。據說清道光年(nian)(nian)一(yi)從蘇(su)州(zhou)調任四(si)川的官員隨帶戲班(ban)中(zhong)便(bian)有三個繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)衣師傅,均為男子,皆(jie)顧(gu)(gu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)技(ji)法。后招徒授技(ji),顧(gu)(gu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)法遂(sui)融于(yu)蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)。于(yu)今蜀(shu)繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)老藝人幾(ji)乎都(dou)(dou)(dou)是男子,其(qi)(qi)因就(jiu)是當(dang)時(shi)(shi)招徒囿于(yu)世(shi)(shi)俗(su)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)禮而(er)不(bu)(bu)能(neng)招閨(gui)中(zhong)女(nv)。 今天(tian)成(cheng)(cheng)都(dou)(dou)(dou)的刺繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)車間(jian)似又回復(fu)女(nv)兒本色,難見(jian)男性繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)工(gong)。梁(liang)張率《繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)賦(fu)》有云:"尋(xun)造物之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)巧妙(miao),固飾化于(yu)百工(gong)……顧(gu)(gu)影(ying)自(zi)媚,窺鏡自(zi)憐(lian),極車馬(ma)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)光飾,盡衣裳之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)妊妍(yan)……"言繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)技(ji),繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)情,繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)美,非(fei)女(nv)兒之(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)作不(bu)(bu)能(neng)形容如此。若沒(mei)有女(nv)工(gong)的刺繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)印象,又焉能(neng)領略"繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)繃花鳥逐時(shi)(shi)新,活色生香(xiang)可奪真"的閨(gui)中(zhong)情景及感受"金針銀腳從人看(kan),愿度(du)鴛(yuan)鴦滿世(shi)(shi)間(jian)"(清樊(fan)樊(fan)山《憶繡(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)(xiu)》詩)的兒女(nv)情懷(huai)。 當然今天的刺繡(xiu)工場遠(yuan)不是(shi)過去小姐繡(xiu)樓的情調(diao),也非"慵線懶針",僅隨興致而(er)為(wei)的閨中閑雅(ya)之事。作(zuo)為(wei)一門古老工藝,蜀繡(xiu)以其獨(du)特(te)的技法(fa)(如雙(shuang)面繡(xiu)、雙(shuang)面異(yi)色異(yi)形異(yi)針法(fa)的三異(yi)繡(xiu))與(yu)富(fu)于(yu)濃郁地方特(te)色的圖案(如芙(fu)蓉鯉魚(yu)、竹林馬雞、山(shan)水(shui)熊(xiong)貓(mao)花鳥人物等)受東西方人青睞,因是(shi)商品而(er)能購得,因是(shi)工藝品而(er)能蘊含(han)并(bing)傳導(dao)民間(jian)文化(hua),這又是(shi)蜀繡(xiu)及(ji)其愛家的幸事。 |